Acids, Enzymes, and Scrubs, Oh My!

If your skin looks lackluster or seems more flakey than the snow falling outside, it is time to exfoliate! Exfoliation clears the layer of dead skin cells to accelerate cell renewal, bringing new healthy skin to the surface. As we age, the cell renewal process slows. Proper exfoliation gently speeds up cell turnover. You can do this with physical agents such as a scrub, a brush, a buffing pad, or chemical means like retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids, enzymes, or peels. A combination of the two is often perfect for maintaining the radiant skin you are after.

When dead skin cells build up on the skin's surface, it can create a snowball effect. First, the skin appears dull. Fine lines and surface wrinkles become more pronounced. Pigment darkens. Dead cells clog pores and trap oil, making them more visible and creating impactions that feed bacteria and lead to breakouts. Finally, this layer of cellular debris creates a barrier that stops products from penetrating the skin and absorbing their beneficial ingredients.  

Who should exfoliate?

Exfoliation is critical for all skin types to maintain healthy, radiant skin and ensure optimal product absorption. But you must select an exfoliation method that suits your skin type. First, consider the skin care products you already use. For example, exfoliating while using products like prescription retinoid creams, retinol, or benzoyl peroxide may worsen dry skin, cause peeling, or trigger acne breakouts, in some skin types. 

People with sensitive skin can have trouble exfoliating without irritation. As a result, their skin tends to turn red and often gets itchy. Instead, opt for gentle formulas and dial down physical exfoliation to once or twice a week. Those with dry, sensitive, or acne-prone skin may prefer a washcloth and a mild chemical exfoliator, as physical exfoliation may be too irritating for this skin type. 

With oily skin, you have much more freedom with exfoliation. Oliy skin can typically tolerate using both chemical and physical exfoliants and at a more potent formulation. However, avoid intense chemical or physical exfoliation if you have a darker skin tone or notice dark spots on your skin after burns, bug bites, or acne breakouts. For some people, especially those with darker skin tones, more aggressive forms of exfoliation may result in dark spots on the skin.

Consequently, if you're mid-breakout, though tempting, you should avoid abrasive physical exfoliation methods. Other times you should hold off on exfoliation include when any kind of cut or open wound is present on your face, if you have an infection on your face like a cold sore as it will spread to other areas, or if you're sunburned. 

What do you use to exfoliate? 

First things first, the goal is not to scrub your skin raw, but to gently exfoliate. Use products that accelerate your skin’s natural cell renewal process. Start by washing your face and using a toner. This will loosen and lift dead cells to clear the way for better absorption of the products that follow. Of course, the best way to exfoliate depends on the overall health and sensitivity of the skin.  

Physical exfoliation relies on friction to manually dislodge and rid dead cells from the skin's surface. It involves using an agent such as granules, a scrub, a brush, a buffing pad, or a dermaplaning device. Keep in mind that when using physical exfoliation, it is possible to overdo it. Large or rough particles, overly abrasive pads, or over-zealous scrubbing can cause micro-tears, irritation, and redness. Instead, stick to scrubs with smooth granules or round beads and soft brushes or pads. Avoid combining physical exfoliators, such as a cleansing scrub, when using a brush or pad. Fingertips are fine. Use gentle pressure and let the physical exfoliant do the work; you’re not scrubbing the floor. Since it removes the cellular debris on the skin’s surface, it immediately gives skin a radiance boost that makes any complexion look less dull, weighted, and tired.

Chemical exfoliators, like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), are natural substances that break down the “glue” that binds dead skin cells together, causing them to slough off. Unlike their physical counterparts, chemical exfoliators can work above and below the skin to refine surface texture and improve cell function. 

Alpha Hydrox Acids significantly improve skin condition by smoothing, tightening, firming, and brightening. In addition, they help promote the production of collagen and elastin, lift excess pigment, clear out and refine pores, and help diminish the signs of aging. AHAs work by loosening the upper layers of skin to produce a micro-peeling effect, which helps fade dark spots, smooth out rough patches, and reduce the appearance of fine lines. 

Mandelic acid is a favorite AHA for its multi-tasking abilities yet gentle action. Its larger molecular structure means it’s absorbed more slowly, making it a  great option for sensitive sin. Additionally, its melanin-inhibiting properties make it an excellent brightener, and its antibacterial action makes it suitable for targeting acne. 

Glycolic acid is mandelic’s more intense relative. Since it has the smallest molecular structure of the acids, it penetrates more quickly to rapidly improve tone and texture. This rapid penetration can make Glycolic acid irritating to some skin. A better option for sensitive or dry skin types might be lactic acid. This AHA has a slower, more surface-level approach. 

Beta Hydroxy Acids are fat-soluble chemical exfoliators rather than water-soluble. They can penetrate through the sebaceous follicles, diving deep into pores and helping to remove dirt, debris, and bacteria. The most common BHA is salicylic acid. It is anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial and can deeply penetrate the follicle to force out acne impactions, making it an excellent choice for oily or acne-prone skin. 

Enzyme exfoliators help to break down the keratin in the skin's upper layers, which helps it lift off anything dead. The enzymes digest the dead skin on your face! Three enzymes you’ll likely see pop up are Bromelain, extracted from pineapple, Papain, derived from papaya, and Cucurbita Pepo, the Pumpkin enzyme. Enzyme exfoliators are suitable for all skin types. Since they are more gentle than hydroxy acids, they are very suitable for dry, sensitive, and mature skin. 

How often should you exfoliate?

Start exfoliating slowly. Take note of how your skin reacts to find the proper schedule for you. Getting advice from a dermatologist or knowledgeable staff at the medspa will ensure you are using the right products for your skin type and at the appropriate time. 

Physical exfoliation should not occur daily. Depending on your skin type, one to four times a week is sufficient. Keep in mind the more aggressive the exfoliant, the less you should use it. Use potent chemical exfoliation intermittently, though working up to daily use of a mild chemical exfoliator like Mandelic Acid is ok but will vary depending on your skin type. Apply moisturizer immediately after exfoliating, as it can dry the skin. Remember that exfoliation leaves your skin more sensitive to the sun, so don’t forget the SPF. You need sunscreen, even in winter, because you’re exposed to UV, whether it is cloudy or sunny weather. 

Remember, if you choose to exfoliate, it’s essential to do so safely so that it does not damage your skin or lead to increased acne breakouts. As a general rule, less is more. The goal is NOT to turn flaming red or to feel the burn but to gently assist your body’s natural exfoliation process for glowing skin. Exfoliation is just as necessary for maintaining healthy, radiant skin as cleansing and moisturizing, and it should be done as a regular part of a healthy skincare routine!

Emily Giddings, RN